Materials and Care
Felt
-
All felts are dense, and can be light weight 100-120gms, medium 140-160 gms and heavy or western weight 210gms. They are water-repellent and breathable.
Felt's properties have indisputable advantages
in winter. It is made from an age-old process of wetting and shrinking the fibers to a dense fabric.Qualities of felt:
- Water-repellent: The felting process reinforces the natural water-repelling proprieties of the wool and fur
- Smell-free: Naturally antibacterial, the felted wool and fur eliminates the sweat and doesn't retain smells
- Insulating: Naturally regulates temperature and humidity. Air is captured within the fibers to create a thermal barrier
- Lasting: Wool and fur fibers can fold 20,000 times without breaking and stretch 30% without alteration.
-
Wool Felt:
A wool fur hat will maintain its colours, stand up to heavy wear easily and keep its finishing touches unspoilt. They’re comfortable to wear, are not that expensive and you can wear them any time.Rabbit Fur Felt:
More durable, lighter and warmer than wool, rabbit fur felt is a premium felt. In addition, fur felt has a smoother structure and surface texture than wool felt, it is less scratchy, softer, and
therefore more comfortable to wear against the skin. Fur felts have to be tightly felted compared to wool, due to the structure of the fiber, this is what increases the durability and the cost.Care:
When textiles made from felt are only superficially soiled, brushing the felt with a brush (in an anti-clockwise direction) or a damp cloth is usually sufficient. You can also vacuum felt. If the felt is more heavily soiled, it is possible to wash it by hand. To do this, the felt should first be dampened then washed with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo, not over agitated, and then rinsed thoroughly. After washing, the felt can simply be stroked and pressed back into shape while steaming over a kettle or steam iron. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the felt.Atelier Royale offers a stretching,cleaning and re shaping service for all felt hats purchased here, just send and include return postage. We also offer the same service and repairs, e.g. holes in the felt or a band that has shrunk, for other felt hats. POA.
Natural Fibres
-
-
Plant fibers like seagrass, raffia, rush, sinamay, bao, toquilla are selected as raw materials because they are sustainably sourced from local communal
plantations but above all; they renew on their own, grow extremely quickly and
uses no to limited pesticides. This makes them especially environmentally friendly. The colour of the materials can vary per season or drying time which gives the products a lively shade.Benefits of using sustainable plants as a raw material:
- Limited or non-usage of pesticides and fertilisers are used to grow these plants
- These plants grow very quickly.
- No uprooting necessary (regenerates on its own)
- High capacity of CO2 absorption and/or other toxins
- Non industrialised materials sourcing process
- Naturally water repellant
- Naturally anti-bacterial
- Naturally anti-static
- Able to be composted.
- Able to be cleaned easily and due to natural plant oils and waxes, they are fairly stain resistant.
- Tough and durable
-
Bao
Bao is a natural biodegradable fiber from the Baobab tree - Adansonia digitata. They mainly grow in Africa and Australia and Madagascar. They have also been introduced to parts of southern Asia.
Fiber from the bark is pounded and used to make rope, baskets, cloth, musical instrument strings, and waterproof hats. While stripping the bark from the lower trunk of most trees usually leads to their death, baobabs not only survive this common practice, but they regenerate new bark.It is a superior durable and light weight fibre.
Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash Bao by hand. To do this, the straw should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Japanese Toyo (Rice Paper)
Toyo is another popular quality material for hats, and is not made from straw at all, but rather from a shellacked Japanese rice paper that is then woven into a hat. So, it is still a plant-based fibre. Toyo has some advantages over straw, in that it has a more refined profile than a straw. The Toyo weave is usually a herringbone constructing giving it durability and flexibility. Toyo is softer than the other straws and sometimes more comfortable to wear as it quickly molds to the head shape. Usually made by machine. Toyo has a higher sun protection rating as is has a close-set weave with very few gaps.
Toyo is not to be confused with Bangora, Shantung or Shanghai paper which is made in China and is of less quality and durability. Shantung straw hats are made from a flat sheet woven by machine and blocked into various hat shapes.
Bangora straw is sometimes referred to as Bangkok weave or Bandera straw. Like Shantung hats, they are also made from paper yarn and feature a perpendicular weave pattern. Bangora hats are made on a machine.Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash it by hand. To do this, the Toyo should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over
rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Raffia
Raffia is a natural biodegradable fibre from palms of the genus - Raphia. Raphia.taedigera produces raffia from the underside of the palm fronds. Found in tropical, humid climates such as in Africa, South America, the Philippines and Madagascar. Raffia trees only grow near major water sources and are characterised by long leaves that can reach up to eighteen feet, where each palm tree possesses nearly one hundred of these leaves.
During the harvesting process, these leaves are cut and torn by hand in strips. Only a young branch of the tree is cut; the entire tree remains intact, not chopped. Normally only two or three branches maximum are pruned per tree. Leaf collectors gather the palms and brush them. From this, the fibers are obtained from the manually harvested branches. They go through a cleaning, sorting, and dying process if needed.
The raffia fiber is soft, pliable, strong, and durable making it an excellent material for hats. Raffia can be hand crocheted or woven.Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash it by hand. To do this, the straw should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Rush
Rush straw is a thick, hollow, stiff straw from many Genus: Juncus; from the bulrush types sedge grass, Schoenoplectus lacustris, Cyperus papyrus, Typha and other types seashore rushgrass (Sporobolus virginicus) or reed. Rush has a wide habitat suited to warm moist environments.
Due to the thickness of the straw, you will quite often see a section with a wide open weave (vented) to allow air circulation.
The hats are usually left in their natural green/beige colour. A rush hat will keep its natural scent of fresh grass.
At Atelier Royale we only use rush in the ‘dome’ shaped hats, with no sharp edges on the crown, to increase longevity of the hat.Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash it by hand. To do this, the straw should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over
rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Seagrass
Seagrasses are a collective group of flowering plants that are biologically grasses. They are ancient plants that evolved nearly 100 million years ago! They are very fast-growing and a single acre of seagrass can produce more than 10 tons a year. Seagrass, sometimes also called water hyacinth is a reedy plant grown very much like rice and it gets its name from the fact it is planted in paddy fields that are flooded with seawater during each growing season. It is typically grown in marshy areas but it is called Dragon Grass when it is grown in more arid soil where it will take on a darker color.
Seagrass is extremely durable and tough, stain resistant; they are non-porous and because of their natural waxy coating and naturally water repellant. As a natural fiber inherently anti-static and mildly anti-bacterial. They are critically important for the marine ecosystem and use enormous amounts of CO2 in the atmosphere.
Seagrass for harvesting grows abundantly in Indonesia, plantations hardly need any additional fertilizers or pesticides as the plants grow naturally. They are quickly renewable the fibers can be harvested every year.Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash it by hand. To do this, the straw should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over
rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Toquilla
Toquilla is made from the leaves of Carludovica palmata. The most flexible, long-lived fiber is the toquilla fiber, which is generally made into hats in Ecuador. Coastal farmers cultivate the palm and harvest the stems before separating the fiber from the green outer skin. This
is boiled to remove chlorophyll and dried for subsequent bleaching with sulfur over a wood fire. Weavers take this raw material and begin weaving the crown and the brim of the hat. Weaving a hat can take from one day to eight months, depending on the quality and finesse.
Toquilla straw, is a very high quality material, which is more flexible than most other types of straw, it is light weight, so particularly comfortable to wear. A practical feature of Panama straw is that it stays clean well in its woven form, as the dirt cannot easily settle on its surface.Care:
It is possible to sponge lightly or wash it by hand. To do this, the straw should first be dampened then washed by ‘splodging’ with an all-in-one detergent or a shampoo and a cloth on the surface of the hat, do not over
rub or agitate the straw. After washing, the straw, while damp, can be stroked and pressed back into shape. When the straw is nearly dry you can aid reshaping with a steam iron. Aways use a cloth if pressing directly on to the straw, especially the brim, a tightly rolled towel in the crown will help retain the crown shape. Keep your hands out the way – steam can easily burn the skin. -
Sinamay
Sinamay or Manilla Hemp is a natural straw fabric made from abaca fibers - Musa textilis, a species of banana native to the Philippines. It is woven in the Philippines, from the stalks of the abaca tree and fibers are long, very strong, long-lasting and salt water resistant. Abaca is processed and woven by hand and is often woven with other fibers such as silk.
For ease of blocking, sinamay is often pre-stiffened during manufacturing. Plus, since it is a natural material, it holds dye very well. It was introduced accidentally to the millinery world in the 1990s when someone was wondering if their parcel ‘packaging’ would make an interesting hat. Florists also use open weave sinamay for decoration.
Care:
Sinamay, if not highly stiffened, can easily lose shape if subject to damp and direct moisture. It is recommended not to get sinamay wet. Please talk directly to your milliner about cleaning.
Hat Bands
-
Standard
Our straw fedora style hats come with the fedora bow. If you want
customization for a standard hat, you will need to contact me, and we can
arrange the change of band. -
Classic
With Petersham Ribbon. The Ribbon can be 38mm or 25mm, or a combination of both and you can choose any colours currently in stock.
-
Vintage Tie
Because vintage ties are spectacular and it's recycled, a vintage tie band will add the wow factor to your hat.
Style one: a 25mm ribbon edged on the top and bottom with the tie.
Style two: a 38mm ribbon with the tie on the top edge and a bow in the tie colour.
-
Indy
a sumptuous tonal mix of lace, natural fabrics, ribbons or fibres and finished with a couple of charms or a crystal.
-
Cat's Whiskers
if enough felt is left from jacking (cutting) the brim to size, a 15mm narrow band or broader if the felt permits band can be added
with tasselled ends. -
Leather
A leather band can be added at the width required. Currently, two colours are available: Cognac or Black.